LE MAIORA
First light over Sembalun · Lombok
First light over Sembalun · Lombok

Indonesia

An island journal

Across Indonesia, the landscape finds its way into the things people make.

The islands

Indonesia stretches across the equator between the Indian and Pacific oceans. More than 17,000 islands lie within its borders. Sumatra and Java anchor the west. Farther east, the chain runs through Bali, Lombok and Flores. To the north lie Kalimantan, the Indonesian part of Borneo, and the long peninsulas of Sulawesi. Beyond the Maluku Islands, the country reaches the western half of New Guinea.

Over Sembalun on Lombok, the first light reaches the ridges while the fields below are still in shadow. Farther east on Flores, mist gathers around the roofs of Wae Rebo. Off Wangi-Wangi in Wakatobi, walkways link Bajo homes above the water. Each island asks something different of a house and the people who live there.

Cloud slipping into the forest clearing · Wae Rebo, Flores
Cloud slipping into the forest clearing · Wae Rebo, Flores
Cloud rising from Bromo in the Tengger caldera · East Java
Cloud rising from Bromo in the Tengger caldera · East Java
Cultivated fields below Rinjani · Lombok
Cultivated fields below Rinjani · Lombok
A thatched bamboo house · Senaru, Lombok
A thatched bamboo house · Senaru, Lombok
The old houses beneath Rinjani · Sembalun Lawang, Lombok
The old houses beneath Rinjani · Sembalun Lawang, Lombok
Mount Inierie above the rooftops on Flores
Mount Inierie above the rooftops on Flores
Bena seen from the wooded slope · Flores
Bena seen from the wooded slope · Flores
The rooftops of Nagari Pariangan · West Sumatra
The rooftops of Nagari Pariangan · West Sumatra
Fields and hills above Pariangan · Tanah Datar
Fields and hills above Pariangan · Tanah Datar
Chili fields beneath Mount Marapi · Aia Angek, West Sumatra
Chili fields beneath Mount Marapi · Aia Angek, West Sumatra
Cloud over the rice fields · Tana Toraja
Cloud over the rice fields · Tana Toraja
The hills above Kaduketug · Banten, Java, archival photograph
The hills above Kaduketug · Banten, Java, archival photograph
A single field hut in a patchwork of rice paddies.
A field hut among the rice · Bali
Gunung Api seen across the water from Pulau Pisang · Banda Islands
Gunung Api seen across the water from Pulau Pisang · Banda Islands
Looking down on northern Banda Neira from the volcano · Maluku
Looking down on northern Banda Neira from the volcano · Maluku
The Bajo settlement on Wangi-Wangi · Wakatobi
The Bajo settlement on Wangi-Wangi · Wakatobi
Homes behind the coconut palms · Dobo, Aru Islands, archival photograph
Homes behind the coconut palms · Dobo, Aru Islands, archival photograph
Looking up through a coconut grove · Banyuwangi, East Java
Looking up through a coconut grove · Banyuwangi, East Java

The people of the islands

More than 1,300 ethnic groups call Indonesia home. Bahasa Indonesia gives people a shared language across the archipelago. At home, a conversation might unfold in Sundanese in West Java, Minangkabau in West Sumatra, or Sasak on Lombok. Across the country, people speak more than 700 languages.

One way into that diversity is through a doorway. In Pandai Sikek, the tips of a Minangkabau rumah gadang rise high above its carved walls. Near Rantepao in the Sulawesi highlands, a Toraja tongkonan has a great sweeping roof. In the Baliem Valley of Papua, the rounded thatch of Dani homes sits close to the ground. At Ke’te’ Kesu’, the roofs face each other across a lane.

A row of thatched roofs from above · Bena, Flores
A row of thatched roofs from above · Bena, Flores
Standing stones beside the houses · Flores
Standing stones beside the houses · Flores
A cluster of roofs above the fields · Kampung Naga, West Java
A cluster of roofs above the fields · Kampung Naga, West Java
Morning on the hillside · Praijing, West Sumba
Morning on the hillside · Praijing, West Sumba
Angklung players · Garut, West Java, archival postcard
Angklung players · Garut, West Java, archival postcard

A working day

In Wologai, coffee dries in the open space between houses. At Kusamba, a salt maker crosses the black sand with seawater balanced across his shoulders. On Pam Island, two women sit with a pile of coconuts, preparing them for oil. Beside the women lies the rest of the day’s work, a pile of coconuts still waiting to be opened.

Coffee drying outside the houses · Wologai, Flores
Coffee drying outside the houses · Wologai, Flores
Carrying seawater across dark sand · Kusamba, Bali
Carrying seawater across dark sand · Kusamba, Bali
Preparing coconuts for oil · Saukabu, Pam Island
Preparing coconuts for oil · Saukabu, Pam Island
Repairing the roof of a traditional house · Mondo, Flores
Repairing the roof of a traditional house · Mondo, Flores
Planting rice near Prambanan · Java, 2010
Planting rice near Prambanan · Java, 2010
The salt beds at the edge of the sea · Amed, Bali
The salt beds at the edge of the sea · Amed, Bali
A salt maker silhouetted on the shore · Kusamba, Bali
A salt maker silhouetted on the shore · Kusamba, Bali
A palm-sugar farmer climbs into the crown · Tianyar, Bali
A palm-sugar farmer climbs into the crown · Tianyar, Bali
Cooking palm sugar over a fire · Jolle, South Sulawesi
Cooking palm sugar over a fire · Jolle, South Sulawesi
Copra laid out to dry · Sulawesi, archival photograph
Copra laid out to dry · Sulawesi, archival photograph
Tempeh for sale · Java, circa 1900–1940
Tempeh for sale · Java, circa 1900–1940
Boats gather along the bank · Lok Baintan, South Kalimantan
Boats gather along the bank · Lok Baintan, South Kalimantan
Produce changes hands on the water · Lok Baintan, South Kalimantan
Produce changes hands on the water · Lok Baintan, South Kalimantan
A market boat filled with produce · South Kalimantan
A market boat filled with produce · South Kalimantan
A leuit beneath the night sky · Ciptagelar, West Java
A leuit beneath the night sky · Ciptagelar, West Java
Pounding rice together in a lesung · Sirnarasa, West Java
Pounding rice together in a lesung · Sirnarasa, West Java

In the makers’ hands

At her doorway in Kampung Naga, a woman weaves a small bamboo container for dodol, a sweet from Garut. In West Java, one pair of hands guides another around the rim of a clay pot. In Bulukumba, a boatbuilder works between the curved ribs of a wooden hull. The scale changes from a few fingers’ width to the breadth of a boat. In each frame, the hands tell you where to look.

A bamboo weaver at her doorway · Kampung Naga, West Java
A bamboo weaver at her doorway · Kampung Naga, West Java
Weaving bamboo just inside the doorway · Sidetapa, Bali
Weaving bamboo just inside the doorway · Sidetapa, Bali
A Dayak woman pares rattan for weaving · Baok, Central Kalimantan
A Dayak woman pares rattan for weaving · Baok, Central Kalimantan
Plaiting mats and pounding rice · Pakantan, archival photograph
Plaiting mats and pounding rice · Pakantan, archival photograph
Weavers at their looms · Nanggulan, Java, circa 1900–1940
Weavers at their looms · Nanggulan, Java, circa 1900–1940
Troso weaving · Jepara, Central Java
Troso weaving · Jepara, Central Java
Songket weaving · Palembang, South Sumatra
Songket weaving · Palembang, South Sumatra
Pressing wax onto cloth · Yogyakarta, 1996
Pressing wax onto cloth · Yogyakarta, 1996
Finished lengths of batik · Trusmi, Cirebon
Finished lengths of batik · Trusmi, Cirebon
A potter at work · Purwakarta, West Java
A potter at work · Purwakarta, West Java
Hands steady the clay on a wooden wheel · West Java
Hands steady the clay on a wooden wheel · West Java
Pots in a cloud of smoke · Banyumulek, Lombok
Pots in a cloud of smoke · Banyumulek, Lombok
Inside the ribs of a pinisi · Bulukumba, South Sulawesi
Inside the ribs of a pinisi · Bulukumba, South Sulawesi
A pinisi under construction onshore · Tanaberu, South Sulawesi
A pinisi under construction onshore · Tanaberu, South Sulawesi
Hull planking at the boatyard · Bira, South Sulawesi
Hull planking at the boatyard · Bira, South Sulawesi
A hull above its timber supports · Bira, South Sulawesi
A hull above its timber supports · Bira, South Sulawesi
The community launches a peledang during Misa Leva · Lamalera, Lembata
The community launches a peledang during Misa Leva · Lamalera, Lembata
A painted teak fishing boat with an upturned bow · Gili Labak, Madura
A painted teak fishing boat with an upturned bow · Gili Labak, Madura
A fishing boat offshore · Tinambung, West Sulawesi
A fishing boat offshore · Tinambung, West Sulawesi
Sailing craft off Halmahera · Maluku, archival photograph
Sailing craft off Halmahera · Maluku, archival photograph
A Bugis sailing vessel off South Sulawesi · 1923–1925
A Bugis sailing vessel off South Sulawesi · 1923–1925
The harbor at Makassar · South Sulawesi, archival photograph
The harbor at Makassar · South Sulawesi, archival photograph

Stone and timber

At Jaddih on Madura, straight cuts interrupt the pale face of a limestone hillside. In Lodtunduh on Bali, women gather rounded stone from a river. The materials already have different shapes before a carver picks up a tool. In Kudus, even the bolt that slides across a door is made of wood. Its edges have worn smooth where hands reach for it.

The cut face of the limestone quarry at Jaddih · Madura
The cut face of the limestone quarry at Jaddih · Madura
Gathering river stone at Lodtunduh · Bali
Gathering river stone at Lodtunduh · Bali
The wooden bolt on a door · Kudus, Central Java
The wooden bolt on a door · Kudus, Central Java
Cutting building stone from a limestone hillside · Java, archival photograph
Cutting building stone from a limestone hillside · Java, archival photograph
An ox pulls a wagon of limestone · Gamping, Java, archival photograph
An ox pulls a wagon of limestone · Gamping, Java, archival photograph
Chilies on a lava-stone grinding plate · Indonesia
Chilies on a lava-stone grinding plate · Indonesia

From Indonesia to Kona

A table in the LE MAIORA collection began as floorboards in an Indonesian house described as about a century old. Laid side by side again, the teak became a surface to gather around. A hand-carved limestone trough in the collection had another everyday purpose before coming to Kona. It held water. The villages and workshops in these photographs show the wider craft traditions of Indonesia. The floorboards and the trough each have their own recorded history.

The low eaves and timber supports of a house on Nias
The low eaves and timber supports of a house on Nias
A carved panel from Pandai Sikek · West Sumatra
A carved panel from Pandai Sikek · West Sumatra
Beneath the roofline near Lake Singkarak · West Sumatra
Beneath the roofline near Lake Singkarak · West Sumatra